I found a Pacific Image PF120 and a Braun FS120 currently available, both of which have rather low 3200 ppi resolution. However, quality film scanners capable of handling medium format film are expensive. If they are color, I'd recommend a dedicated film scanner (not a flatbed). You can check their website to see if it supports the V600 and V800. EPSON recently introduced a 64-bit Mac driver for many of their scanners. Hamrick Viewscan and Silverfast Pro 8 are two software options for scanning into MacOS Catalina. The V800 is much better for 35mm film than the V600.įocus of slides and negs is a common challenge/problem with flatbed scanners.Ī dedicated film scanner may be better is you want a scanner. The V600 is great for prints, just OK for 35mm slides/negs, and better for 120 format and larger films. The Negative Lab Pro software plugin and a recent version of Lightroom Classic CC are recommended for working with the macro copy method.ĮPSON offers better auto color correction and dust removal options. But they require post-processing for best results. ( show quote)Ĭopy setups using macro lenses yield better sharpness. Thanks in advance for your help.I have a supply of 35mm slides and 35mm and 2 1/4. Obviously the V600 is appealing due to its price-just wondering if it will be the one I should buy. Is the V800 really that much better than the V600? Also I have upgraded to Catalina on my mac and I ran across a comment that these scanners are not compatible with Catalina. The Epson V600 seems very reasonably priced but I am wondering what members experience has been with both the V600 and the pricier V800. I have been doing some research on UHH and need some input from members here. Once the negative is converted in NLP, you’ll see a bunch of options appear, and you can use these to fine-tune the look of the negative.I have a supply of 35mm slides and 35mm and 2 1/4 negatives which I would like to scan. This is kind of confusing, but you want to crop that little bit of border frame out before you convert the image in NLP, otherwise the colors can get messed up. The next thing I do is convert the negative in a plugin called Negative Lab Pro (NLP). You need that little bit of border so that you can automatically white balance the image. Nevin: Before we get to that we have to back up, because this is important: When you’re lining up the frames during the scanning phase, you need to leave a little bit of the frame border in the scan. They’re fine for the web and socials, but to print large, you’d probably need a drum scan.Įvan: Okay, once you have them scanned and imported into Lightroom, then what do you do? The thing is, you can’t really print a 35mm shot anyway. I don't know, it’s just the process I use and it works for me. But on the other hand, your scans are really good. JPEGs are inherently lossy, so most photographers would probably use a lossless TIF file. Nevin: Yeah I have it set to export as a roughly 12-26MB JPEG.Įvan: I should probably explain for the reader that this is absolute sacrilege. “Digital ICE” mitigates some, but not all of the dust.Įvan: And what kind of file does that give you? A TIF?Įvan: WHAT? Can you double-check that for me.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |